Organic Gotu Kola Leaf Herb Centella Asiatica Extract Gotu Kola Extract from China

Centella asiatica, also called gotu kola, centella, is a perennial creeping herb. Centella asiatica is native to India. It is widely distributed in the tropical and subtropical regions of the world. It is mainly distributed in south of the Yangtze river of China. Centella asiatica prefers to grow on wet river banks, swamps and meadows. It has been used as medicine in China for more than 2,000 years. Many other countries and regions, such as Madagascar, South Africa, India, southeast Asian countries and South America, also use it as auxiliary medicine and dermatologic medicine. The main active ingredients used in cosmetics are asiatic acid and madecassic acid, asiaticoside and madecassoside.

5. Centella Asiatica Extract Benefits

• Anti-bacterial and anti-inflammation

Centella Asiatica Extract has a certain inhibitory effect on pseudomonas aeruginosa, staphylococcus aureus and acne bacillus. Asiatic acid can dissolve the bacteria’s outer waxy membranes and is killed by other drugs or body defense tissues. Asiatic acid and asiaticoside are available for external use to promote wound healing, and stimulate the development of granulation tissue. It can promote cutin or epidermal regeneration. It helps to form connective tissue. It is better to use with phospholipids. Centella Asiatica Extract has obvious effect of eliminating facial whelk and acne. Centella Asiatica Extract can reduce the production of pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-1, MMP-1). It improves and repairs the skin’s barrier function. Thereby it can prevent and correct the skin’s immune dysfunction. Therefore, Centella Asiatica Extract, due to its anti-inflammatory activity, can also be used in cosmetics such as after-sun repair and anti-allergic products.

• Whitening

Centella Asiatica Extract also has strong antioxidant effect. It can inhibit free radical activity, and weaken melanin pigmentation. It improves skin blood circulation, and updates skin cell regeneration. Also it helps melanin metabolize out of the body smoothly. Skin will become smooth, delicate and white after using cosmetics containing Centella Asiatica Extract.

• Repairing scars

Scientific research has found that Centella Asiatica Extract can promote the synthesis of collagen Ⅰ and Ⅲ. At the same time, it also can promote mucoitin secretion (such as the synthesis of hyaluronic acid); it increases skin moisture-retaining ability; it activates and renews skin cells. Other studies have showed that Centella Asiatica Extract also can activate fibroblast gene. It can enhance the activity of the basal layer cells of the skin; it maintains the elasticity and tightness of skin; and it smoothes fine wrinkles of face. Because of its important role in promoting collagen synthesis, angiogenesis and granulation growth in the body, Centella Asiatica Extract is conducive to wound healing, scar repair. It prevents striae gravidarum during pregnancy.

6. Pharmacological Study of Centella Asiatica Extract and Cosmetics

Test Item	Concentration	Result
Promotion effect of asiaticoside on the proliferation of human keratinocytes	100ug/mL	Promotion rate:116.1(blank 100)
Promotion effect of asiaticoside on the proliferation of human fibroblasts	50ug/mL	Promotion rate:127.1(blank 100)
Promotion effect of asiatic acid on collagen production	10umol/L	Promotion rate:150 (blank 100)
Promotion effect of asiaticoside on collagen production	10umol/L	Promotion rate: 255(blank 100)
Inhibitory effect of asiaticoside on the activity of scar fibroblasts	0.5mg/mL	Inhibition rate: 59.7%
Inhibitory effect of asiaticoside on ear swelling in mice	0.5umol each ear	Inhibition rate: 45.1%

7. BFSTAR Centella Asiatica Extract Characteristic

• Complete in specifications. BFSTAR has water-solubility and non water-solubility Centella Asiatica Extract. It can be used in cosmetics of different textures.
• Select high quality Centella Asiatica as raw material.

8. Centella Asiatica Extract Application and Reference Dosage

Centella Asiatica Extract has many skin-care bioactivities. So it can be used in whitening, anti-oxidation, removing acne, anti-inflammation and scar repair cosmetics. Centella Asiatica Extract has estrogen-like effect. It can stimulate the growth rate of hair. Thus it can be used in shampoo with dosage of about 0.05%.

Product	Reference Dosage
Centella Asiatica Extract	0.3-1.5%

 

Centella Asiatica Extract application examples in major cosmetic brands around the world:

Country	Brand	Product
Japan	Dr.Ci:Labo	Mild UV for Sensitive Skin O2 Herbal Gel Oxygen Charge
	Melty Wink	Eye Gel
	POLA	B.A The Lotion
Switzerland	La Prairie	La prairie Skin Caviar Liquid Lift
Korea	AHC	Hydra Soother Mask Private Real Eye Cream Sunscreen SPF50+ PA+++
	Su:m37	Secret Programming Essence Water-Full Rebalancing Gel Lotion Sunscreen SPF30+ PA+++
	MISSHA	Time Revolution The First Treatment Essence
UAS	CLINIQUE	Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion
	Estee Lauder	Nutritious Radiant Vitality Energy Lotion Intense Moist Nutritious Rosy Prism Radiant Gel Emulsion
	Mentholatum	Acnes Medicated Powder Lotion
	Artistry	Essentials Replenishing Eye Creme
France	GUERLAIN	Orchidee Imperiale Exceptional Complete Care The Cream
	LOREAL	Revitalift  anti-wrinkle and firming day cream Revitalift Eye Cream
	Cetaphil	Rich Hydrating Night Cream
China	Winona	Anti-redness Rich Moisturizing Cream Arbutin whitening and moisturizing cream
	Pechoin	Sunscreen SPF30+PA+++
	INOHERB	Rhodiola Fine Whitening and Anti-oxidation Cleansing Foam
	Mask Family	Cherry Deep Hydrating Silk Mask
	Herborist	Purifying Mask Infused With Ferment Filtrate
	FRANIC	Aloe Vera Gel

9. Centella Asiatica Extract Reference Formula

Wound healing oil:

Ingredient	Content（%）	Ingredient	Content（%）
Centella Asiatica Extract	0.75	Methylparaben	0.3
Vaseline	25.0	Fragrance	0.3
Lanolin	35.0	Water	Add to 100
Liquid paraffin	22

Whitening emulsion:

Ingredient	Content（%）	Ingredient	Content（%）
Centella Asiatica Extract	2.0	Solid paraffin	5
Beewax	10.0	Butylparaben	0.4
Liquid paraffin	4.0	Sodium hydroxide	0.1
Glycerol monostearate	7.0	Borax	0.2
Polyoxyethylene sorbitan ether (20) mono-laurate	2.0	Fragrance	Appropriate
Placental extract	1.0	Water	Appropriate

Essence：

Ingredient	Content	Ingredient	Content
Centella Asiatica Extract	10%	Hydrola	45%
Vitamin E	1%	Pomegranate extract	17%
Lavender essential oil	6 drops	Red ginseng extract	10%
Rosewood essential oil	4 drops	Rose essential oil	3drops
Phospholipids PMB	0.5%	PMA（thickener）	1%
Hyaluronic acid	10%	Olive oil（solubilizer）	2%
Hemp-seed oil	1%	Pomelo seed extract	1%
Mink oil	1%

Preparation method:

Mix the oil phase ingredients (hemp seed oil, mink oil, vitamin E and various essential oils), thickener and solubilizer evenly, then add water phase ingredients into oil phase, and stir well. Rose essential oil has good permeability and fusion. It can stimulate various metabolic reactions of skin cells, and activate cell regeneration ability. Also it inhibits oxygen free radical activity and controls tyrosinase oxidation. It has anti-spot anti-aging effect, and helps the skin to absorb other components.

Whitening lotion:

Ingredient	Content（%）	Ingredient	Content（%）
Centella Asiatica Extract	6	Angelica Root Extract	8
Rose flower extract	1	Pueraria Extract	3
Platycodon extract	4	Aloe Vera Extract	10
Pearl powder	5	Artemisia Capillaris Extract	2
Glycyrrhiza Glabra extract	8	Papain	1
Vitamin E oil	6	Vitamin B6	1
Distilled water	40

Preparation method:

Mix evenly ingredients except Pearl powder, Papain, Vitamin E oil and Vitamin B₆. Heat to 50°C for 40-60min. Stir well and cool to room temperature naturally. Then add rest ingredients and use Ultrasonic vibration for 10-20min, then get the lotion.

Cuticle repair toner:

	Ingredient	Content（%）		Ingredient		Content（%）
Skin conditioner	Centella Asiatica Extract	3		Chamomile extract		1
	Althaea officinalis root extract	1
Flower water	Verbena flower water	10	Citrus aurantium amara flower water		5
	Lavender water	59.7
Humectant	1,3- propylene glycol	7	1,3- pentanediol		0.5
	Xylitol	3	Fucogel-1		0.5
	Sodium hyaluronate	0.02	Glycerin		2
Preservative	Glucolactone	0.7
Deionized water		Add to 100

Preparation method:

• Add the humectants and deionized water to agitator kettle, heat to 60-80°C, stir and mix evenly.
• Cool to 35-45°C, then add Flower water and Skin conditioners, stir well until dissolved completely.
• Add preservative and stir until well combined.
• Check the sample, and filtrate after it is qualified. Ph value should be controlled at 5-7.

Moisturizing lotion：

Ingredient	Content（%）	Ingredient	Content（%）
Centella Asiatica Extract	3	Angelica Root Extract	10
Passiflora extract	4	Pueraria Extract	5
Platycodon extract	1	Aloe vera extract	16
Ginseng extract	1	Squalane	10
Papain	1	Olive oil	5
Vitamin B6	3	Ginkgo biloba extract	5
Walnut oil	3	Distilled water	30

Preparation method:

Mix evenly ingredients except Squalane, Papain, Olive oil and Vitamin B₆. Heat to 50°C for 40-60min. Stir well and cool to room temperature naturally. Then add rest ingredients and use Ultrasonic vibration for 10-20min, then get the lotion.

10.Centella Asiatica Extract Safety

• China has included Centella Asiatica Extract in The International Catalogue of Chinese Cosmetic Raw Materials Standards (2010 edition) published by CAFFCI and On the Announcement of Name List of Cosmetics Raw Material issued by CFDA in 2014. There are no reports showing that is unsafe for external use.
• CTFA has specified Centella Asiatica Extract as a raw material for cosmetics.
• Centella Asiatica Extract is listed in The List of Used Cosmetic Ingredient approved by the Ministry of Health of the People’s Republic of China in 2001.